Salamanca is a city that, for most people, is not easily identifiable on a map. It is not often referenced when talking about Spain or its popular, metropolitan cities such as Madrid and Barcelona. It is, however, widely known by young people throughout Europe looking for a place to call “home” while they work towards their college degree.
Salamanca is nestled in the central region of Spain located about 2.5 hours west of Madrid and 2 hours east of the Portuguese border. With its university built in 1218, the city thrives on revenue brought in from student housing and host families taking in exchange students.
After returning from a semester abroad in Salamanca, I’m sharing several of my most peculiar observations.
1. Bread
Without fail, during your first meal in Spain and every meal that follows, you will consume an excessive amount of bread. Not just one or two pieces but rather three or four slices of bread per meal. Typically, breakfast consists of toast with jam or a croissant. Lunch and dinner vary between a variety of entrees but always center around the same carbohydrate.
It’s important to note that the table bread in Europe is not like the white sandwich bread we’re accustomed to in the U.S. Instead, it is freshly baked, artisan bread that pairs nicely when warm. Oftentimes, I would consume half of a baguette without realizing until I glanced down at the pile of crumbs surrounding my plate.
In the world of croissants, the Spaniards have gotten creative. You can find croissants plain or filled with chocolate, cream cheese, raspberry compote, ham, hotdogs, and the like. In my humble opinion, Croissanteria Paris on Calle Rua is the best croissant shop in Salamanca. It is a small store with only one table and a counter that displays a case full of unique croissants made fresh daily and warmed up for your enjoyment.
2. Siesta Time
If you ask any Spaniard or exchange student who has spent a month or more in Spain, they will be familiar with the term “siesta”. Siestas are common all throughout Spain in small towns and large cities with the exception of the more metropolitan areas like Madrid and Barcelona. Siesta time involves the workforce closing its doors for 2-3 hours each afternoon in order to come home, eat lunch with family, and spend time together midday before returning to work between 4:30-5pm.
During siesta time, all shops and stores are closed. The only places in Salamanca that remain open are restaurants/bars/cafes, the Post Office, and pharmacies. When I arrived in Salamanca, siesta time perplexed me. You mean that for two whole hours the entire city essentially does nothing? The phenomenon left me with so many questions. Over time, however, I found the silver-lining on this century-old tradition.
Meal time in Spain is considered sacred; food offers an opportunity to press “pause” on life, sit with loved ones, and have uninterrupted conversation. It amazed me that there was a designated time each afternoon that the entire city obeyed as a period of rest. Nonetheless, over the four months that I lived in Spain, I learned to treasure this daily pause because it offered itself as a time to update my host family on my morning activities and exchange plans for the evening while all sitting together.
3. A Day of Rest
Beware that all errands must be ran and grocery shopping completed before 9 pm on Saturday evening otherwise, you will go without for 48 hours. All shops and stores are closed in Salamanca on Sundays. The only open establishments in the city consist of cafes, restaurants, and the local bars.
Sundays in Salamanca are seen as a time for rest. People sleep in late and take their time waking up because they know that there is very little to do outside of their homes. Couples spend time taking a “paseo” through the neighborhood and families use the afternoon to prepare several courses for dinner that night. On Sundays, the city slows down and allows its people to refuel.
This concept is something that Spain does well. Rest is a central part of their day and tradition has instilled practices that promote rest, fellowship, and a mindset of enjoying the present moment. The idea of rest was difficult for me to adjust to however, I eventually learned the value and tranquility that comes from consistently taking a break each day.
4. The Preferred Form of Transportation
When I found out that my walk to the university everyday would be 25 minutes, I was certain that there was a mistake because a 30 minute walk anywhere is absurd. Being rather naive the first few weeks abroad, I wasn’t aware of an important truth: Europe’s most popular form of transportation is by foot.
The city of Salamanca is designed in a way where walking makes sense and may allow you to arrive at your destination quicker than driving. There are many roads designated only for pedestrians and alleyways that are unfriendly to vehicles because of their uneven pavement. With this in mind, a 20 to 30 minute walk is considered normal and the preferred form of transportation among many citizens.
5. The University of Salamanca
Salamanca is a student-centered city. La Universidad de Salamanca is the oldest university in Spain and the third oldest university in Europe. International students looking to practice their Spanish and European students interested in an Erasmus exchange frequently choose Salamanca as their home.
The city is incredibly inexpensive for its size (a population of roughly 150,000 people). A cup of coffee is typically between 1.0-1.3 euro and tapas are usually 1.0 euro each or free with the purchase of a beverage. With prices like these, socializing and frequenting the streets are done nightly by all generations.
Perhaps the city’s biggest draw for its students is the multitude of discotecas. Students can start their night at the Chupiteria – “shot store” in English – where there is a long list of shots costing 1 euro each. Later in the night, just steps from the Chupiteria, students have their choice of clubs like Gatsby, Camelot, the Music Factory, Kandhavia, and Hacienda. Only a short walk from this area is the street Gran Via that holds many popular clubs and bars known by locals and offer a true, Spanish experience.
Four months in this city was an absolute dream. It was no where near sufficient time but I grew in awe of the city’s architecture, greenery, and extensive history. I learned to live slower, look around as I walk, and take in the beauty of each day.
Four months in Salamanca is 120 days to fall in love with a city full of students, culture, and history. 120 days to make this city home.